主题餐厅丨王大泉：LES MORILLES 樂·墨瑞法餐厅

浪漫主义的结局是自由主义，是宽容是行为得体以及对于不完美的生活的体谅。

——哲学家以赛亚·伯林

The result of Romanticism, then, is liberalism, toleration, decency and the appreciation of the imperfections of life; some degree of increased rational self-understanding.

--Philosopher Isaiah Berlin

↑ 戳上面播放《LES MORILLES 樂·墨瑞法餐厅》

包括主厨在内的三位年轻创始人曾留学瑞士和法国，学习管理和厨艺，并持有对东方美学的绝佳意趣审美。2022年，这家最初只想建立一个朋友聚点的法餐厅升级，从品牌标识至内部空间，设计师王大泉用近一年的时间完成了内部空间设计。在北京亮马河水平静的波光里，这间法餐厅只属于这座城市。

Les Morilles, hiding in the office building by the Liangma River in Beijing, is an old French restaurant slightly larger than a living room, mainly dealing in authentic Paris cuisine. It has been awarded as the Michelin Dining Plate Restaurant for two consecutive years, is just like its location: low profile and good reputation.

The three young founders, including the chef, studied management and cooking in Switzerland and France, also hold an excellent taste of oriental aesthetics. In 2022, this French restaurant, which initially only wanted to build a gathering place for friends, will be upgraded. From the brand logo to the internal space, designer Wang Daquan has completed the internal space design in nearly a year. In the calm reflection of the Liangma River in Beijing, this French restaurant belongs only to this city.

墨瑞餐厅部分菜品

Some dishes at LES MORILLES

北京LES MORILLES樂·墨瑞法餐厅，位于燕莎商圈、亮马河畔。现为2021、2020、2019年度大众点评黑珍珠二钻，2021、2020年度米其林餐盘餐厅。

餐厅在传统与新派法式烹饪技法结合的同时，创造融入东方食材、香料的菜品。并对每一种食材要求严谨，每一道菜皆由经验十足的海外背景厨师团队精心打造，妥贴照料食客对美味的渴求。

Beijing LES MORILLES Restaurant is located at Yansha Business District and the bank of Liangma River. It was selected as two-diamond Black Pearl restaurant on YELP in 2021, 2020 and 2019, and the "Michelin Dining Plate Restaurant" in 2021 and 2020.While combining traditional and new French cooking techniques, the restaurant creates dishes with oriental ingredients and spices. It also has strict requirements for each kind of ingredient, and each dish is carefully created by an experienced team of chefs with overseas background to properly care for customers' thirst for delicious food.

“它是情绪本身”

“It should be the emotion itself”

墨瑞所在建筑与北京燕莎大厦同期，当年由德国人建造，包括门窗结构在内的原有基础较好，但同时也对可供改动的空间也带来限制。

京城的水总是珍贵，亮马河水曾为风尘仆仆的客商马匹洗净身体，而后多年用作观赏河。它与巴黎塞纳河遥遥致意产生某种关联，升腾雾气与迷蒙细雨恰好为餐厅罩上一层模糊柔情的滤镜，如今樂·墨瑞（Les Morilles）的餐厅入口已无名牌，老客进入大厦推开厚重的黄铜门把闪身隐入窄门，新客则会在窄而高耸的门前徘徊犹疑，这是整场巨幕的引子。

The building where Les Morilles is located formed around the same time as Beijing Yansha Building, which was built by German people. The original foundation, including the door and window structure, was good, but it also limited the space that can be changed.

The water in the capital is always precious. The Liangma River was once used to wash the bodies of dusty merchants' horses, and then was used as a river for sightseeing for many years. It has some kind of connection with the faraway Seine River in Paris. The rising fog and misty drizzle just cover the restaurant with a layer of fuzzy and tender filters. Now Les Morilles has no name board at the entrance of the restaurant, old customers enter the building, push open the thick door with brass doorknob, and flash into the restaurant. New customers will wander front of the narrow and tall door, which is the introduction of the whole scene.

在小空间里，设计师做得极为煽情，饱满炙热的东西被压入内敛沉默，性感浪漫更为舒缓而扣人心弦——它不是任何一种情绪，它应当是情绪本身。

The designer made this small space extremely sensational, there is an aura that mixed a sense of full and depth, that is pressed into the introverted silence, which makes the sexy romantic place more soothing and exciting——It is not any emotion, it should be the emotion itself.

空间调度与拼贴

Space Schedule and Collage

进入甬道，眼睛要先适应突然暗下来、涌向身体的光，洗墙光下橘色浮在石钉路上，墙壁斑驳微光，你仿佛闻见夜晚潮湿城市与内陆河水的味道。你想要快点儿走到转角，又被未知陌生暗暗牵拉着。

When entering the corridor, your eyes would first adapt to the light that suddenly darkens and flows to your body. Orange color floats on the stone nail road under the wall washing light. The walls are mottled and shimmering, as if you can sense the smell of wet cities and inland rivers at night. You want to go to the corner quickly, and you are secretly led by unknown strangeness.

拱券式天花在头顶扭力交叠，与有机三曲面定义出雕塑感空间外壳，柔软的动感在强有力的材料扭结中渗透出来。向内经过旋扭折叠，视野豁然、场景转换，抵达带有古典意向和东方触感的餐区。多组场景在内部拼贴，紧凑却保持一份疏离感。玻璃幕墙与隔断移门对空间进行蒙太奇式的分隔连接，城市随机性与陌生激发的归属感暗含在动线逻辑中。空间环游中，无拘束的亲切稳妥将逐步瓦解对法餐高调繁复的刻板印象。

The arched ceiling overlaps with the twisting force on the top of your head, and the organic vibe three curved surfaces define the sculptural space shell. The soft and dynamic feeling permeates through the strong material kinks. After seeing the twisting and folding inwards, the view suddenly changes and the scene changes to reach the dining area with classical style and oriental touch. Multiple groups of scenes are spliced internally, which is compact but keeps a sense of alienation. The glass curtain wall and the partition sliding door connect the space in a montage way, and the sense of belonging inspired by the randomness and strangeness of the city is implied in a dynamic logic. During your exploration of the space in here, the unrestrained kindness and stability will gradually break the stereotype you have of high profile and complicated French food.

进入包房，欧洲古典殿堂意向清晰可辨，融合东方式的对称典雅令内部端然有力。与此同时，重新规划后充分利用了碎片空间，游艇式的精致构建增加了容载量与空间维度——没有所谓的打卡位或受冷遇的座位，每一处都有恰当的风景和氛围。倒是客人时常会指明今天更想要坐在哪个位置，那大约更符合当日情绪和社交类型。

Entering the private room, the style of the classical European palace is clear, and the integration of oriental symmetry and elegance makes the interior looks powerful. At the same time, after the re-planning, the debris space has been fully utilized. The refined construction has increased the capacity and space dimension - there is no spot for Instagram photos or seats that would be ignored easily, and every place has an appropriate view and atmosphere. However, guests often point out where they want to sit that day, which is more in line with the mood and social type of the day.

城市灯光里，寻找和归宿是永恒的主题。在它所营造的内部，有人怅然若失，有人获得归宿，并无定数。

In the city lights, finding and destination is the eternal theme. In the interior of its construction, some people feel lost, and some people have no definite destination.

感官抚触

Sensory touch

线条曲直、色彩浓淡、表面粗细、材料轻重在樂·墨瑞（Les Morilles）中调和铺排。创始人和设计师一起在各个城市选购材料，苛求颜色和触感，在意经久使用的磨损痕迹是否恰到好处。空间虽新装，却仿佛从古老岁月里走来。

Lines and colors, surface and materials vary wonderfully at Les Morilles. Founders and designer together purchased materials in various cities, strictly selected colors and touch, and paying attention to whether the wear marks used for a long time would be appropriate. Although the space is new, it seems to be coming from ancient times.

立面上，艺术涂料与壁布拉出层次；黑色金属条勾勒边缘，与浑厚结实的弧面线角形成律动；沿用老店具有识别性的红，加以矫正后体现在丝绸、丝绒与皮革面料中；雀跃迷幻的红、黄、蓝多色灯光渲染出巴黎撩人的暧昧迷情；深胡桃地板依照法国规制铺贴，与老店旧物一同将整个空间剧场拉入深沉背景中。

On the facade, the artistic paint and wall cloth pull out layers; The black metal strip outlines the edge, forming rhythm with the thick and solid arc line angle; The distinctive red color of the old restaurant is used, and it is reflected in silk, velvet and leather fabrics after correction; The psychedelic red, yellow and blue polychrome lights render Paris's sultry and ambiguous fascination; The deep walnut colored floor is paved according to the authentic French style, and the whole space is pulled into the deep background together with the antique decoration.

经玻璃过滤的柔和天光充满餐厅，食客将在走动中感受洁净的现代感，一旦落座随即沉入复古旧景，包裹恰如其分，私密而无压迫。

在这幕空间叙事中，巴黎夜游的淡漠疏离被空间的得体和温煦抵消。而比起丝缎般光滑的现代都市，北京城略带粗糙的情绪颗粒在墨瑞更为迷人，松弛感像流动的河，成为墨瑞意识桌面上波光粼粼的壁纸。

The soft skylight filtered by glass fills the restaurant, and the diners would feel a sense of simple modernity when they walk inside. Once they sit down, they would sink into the old retro scene, with proper privacy and no oppression.

In this scene of space narrative, the lost feeling of Paris at night is offset by the appropriateness and warmth of space. Compared with the silken smooth-like modern city, the slightly roughed emotional particles of Beijing City vibe is more attractive at LES MORILLES. The sense of relaxation is like a flowing river, becoming the sparkling wallpaper at LES MORILLES' consciousness desktop.

河水永不止息

The river runs forever

我们犁的土都是星尘，随风四处飘散

而在一杯雨水中，我们饮下了宇宙

The soil of our plough is all stardust, which floats everywhere with the wind

And in a glass of rain water, we drink the universe

从情绪到触感，从味觉到音乐，从色彩到光线非线性的流动感在空间内汇聚为一股能量。

来自多媒介艺术家陈熹的数字作品以其极具未来感的超现实性与空间的怀旧浪潮碰撞，怦然之力显现——自由的生命体表达丰盛的组织关系，游离的、浪漫的、自由的、水状的......将难以言明的情感关系和生命能量向更遥远、更宏大的方向掷出。数字艺术将整个空间的气息搅动起来，无论坐在哪个位置，泡沫和流水都能进入视野，成为意识的河流汩汩向前。

From emotion to the touch, from taste to music, and from color to the light, the non-linear flow sense converges into a stream of energy in this space.

The digital works of Chen Xi, a multi-media artist, collided with the nostalgic wave of space with its futuristic surrealism, and showed their powerful force - free life bodies express rich organizational relationships, and free, romantic, water like... throw the indescribable emotional relationships and life energy in a more distant and grand direction. Digital art stirs up the atmosphere of the whole space. No matter where you sit, foam and water can enter your vision and become the river of consciousness.

无论从享誉京城的藏酒抑或口碑卓著的菜肴上看，樂·墨瑞（Les Morilles）都无愧一席“流动的盛宴”，而从味觉到生命、从自然向宇宙的能量流动，更从一个重要侧面彰显出这间老牌法餐的视野与蓬勃生命力。

Whether from the famous Tibetan wine in Beijing or the dishes with outstanding reputation, Les Morilles is worthy of a "Moveable Feast", and the energy flow from taste to life and from nature to the universe shows the vision and vitality of this old French restaurant in an important aspect.

本次改造中，老建筑加小空间对结构与动线处理提出了诸多要求，也意味着精准的尺度把控。而在法餐厅融入东方意趣，亦或是将遥远的两座城市进行精神互联看似是设计的观念，而令观念富于力量确是依靠与情感和其他想象的联结，比如对当代料理的概念、对人的情绪诉求、对城市的探查等等，它们共同构成的矢量汇集而成这间餐厅。

未来，室外花园完成后，进入餐厅、餐前叙话品酒、游逛花园、落座进餐将构成更为完整的体验流线。樂·墨瑞（Les Morilles）在亮马河畔升起帷幕、熏染霓虹、静待新事。

During the reconstruction, the old building with smaller space has put forward many requirements for processing structure and dynamic, which also means accurate scale control. While it seems to be a design concept to integrate oriental interest into French restaurants, or to connect the spirits of two distant cities, the idea is powerful by connecting with emotion and other imagination, such as the concept of contemporary cuisine, emotional appeal to people, exploration of the city, etc., which together form a harmonious sense in this restaurant.

In the future, after the outdoor garden is completed, entering the restaurant, chatting and tasting wine before dinner, wandering the garden and sitting down for dinner will constitute a more complete experience. Les Morilles raised the curtain at the bank of Liangma River, blending the neon lights and waiting for new comers.